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Ron Seaman asked:




Home Theater Setup (Surround Sound Speaker Setup)

I am going to assume that you already have a surround sound or home theater amplifier or receiver. There are 3 main home theater speaker configurations which you will see termed 5.1, 6.1, and 7.1 channel surround. You will also see mentioned the terms Dolby Digital, DTS, and Dolby Pro-Logic. There are some other formats such as Dolby Digital EX, Dolby Pro-logic IIx, Dolby TrueHD, DTS neo:6.1, DTS-ES, TrueSurround XT, and undoubtedly more, but they do not need to be addressed separately as the information below is also relevant for them.

Let’s dispense with Dolby Pro-Logic first: if your receiver is only Pro-Logic (only older receivers at this point) you do not need to worry about 6.1 or 7.1 surround because your system can’t use the extra speakers. The two factors relevant to our discussion are:

1. how many channels does your system permit, and

2. Do you want to buy that many speakers?

All the receivers that support more than 5.1 channels will also work fine with a 5.1 channel setup. Obviously, 7.1 will provide better surround sound than 5.1, but at the expense of two extra speakers. If you have a limited budget you will have to decide whether to buy 5.1 higher quality speakers, or go for cheaper speakers to allow for 7.1 channels. By the way, the .1 channel is the home theater subwoofer. The subwoofer is really needed for home theater. A system will work without it, but I don’t recommend going without for home theater. The center channel is also very important for home theater, serving to anchor the sound to the video screen. These are the recommended placements according to Dolby Labs.

5.1 surround system:

A). Center speaker centered on video source

B). Subwoofer(s) in an arc with the main L & R speakers between speakers and video source

C). L & R front on a 22-30 degree angle from the sitting, on an equidistant arc connecting the center channel and subs

D). L & R surround equidistant and on a 90-110 degree angle from the sitting position

6.1 surround system:

A). Center speaker centered on video source

B). Subwoofer(s) in arc with the main L & R speakers between speakers and video source

C). L & R front on a 22-30 degree angle from the sitting, on an equidistant arc connecting the center channel and subs

D). L & R surround equidistant and on a 90-110 degree angle from the sitting position

E). Rear center 180 degrees (directly behind) the sitting position

7.1 surround system:

A). Center speaker centered on video source

B). Subwoofer(s) in arc with the main L & R speakers between speakers and video source

C). L & R front on a 22-30 degree angle from the sitting, on an equidistant arc connecting the center channel and subs

D). L & R surround equidistant and on a 90-110 degree angle from the sitting position

E). L & R rear equidistant and on a 135-150 degree angle from the listening position.

The descriptions above are the specifications for speaker placement according to Dolby Labs.

Subwoofer Setup

Your subwoofer may have a switch for Dolby Digital / Pro Logic. If your receiver is only capable of Dolby Pro Logic (only older systems) you need to use the Pro Logic inputs and set the crossover frequency properly to match with your main speakers. You may use an 80 Hz setting and adjust the volume properly for a reasonable output. I will not go into this further as almost all systems are capable of Dolby Digital output. If you have a Dolby Digital capable receiver (assuming you are using the sub for home theater purposes) set the switch to Dolby Digital even if you are using a Pro Logic source. The reason for this is that it allows your home theater receiver to manage the bass output & crossover frequency of the bass information. Your receiver will ensure the proper output to the sub in the case of Dolby Pro Logic source material. If you use the Pro Logic inputs only, Dolby Digital programs may not be reproduced properly. The same goes if you have multiple inputs on your sub. If your input is labeled LFE it is the equivalent of a Dolby Digital input. You want to use the input to the RCA style plug (or plugs) if you are using the subwoofer in a surround system. If you have speaker level binding post inputs, these are almost always for using the subwoofer in a non surround sound speaker setup. Preset the subwoofer level control to about halfway before running the white noise test tone to calibrate your receiver speaker levels. You absolutely must run the test and balance your speaker levels to have the surround system perform properly. Don’t worry about the crossover frequency control on the sub for Dolby Digital or better systems. For Pro Logic set it to the point where bass in your main speakers drops off, (or 80 Hz if you can’t find any info, and adjust from there for best sound) which will require looking at the documentation for your speakers.

If you are not using your sub in a surround system, you may, with advantage, use the speaker level inputs on the back of your sub. If you have relatively small speakers without much bass output this can provide a substantial sound quality advantage. The receiver left and right channels are connected directly to the subwoofer, and the left and right speakers connect to the speaker out connectors on the subwoofer. What this does is allow the sub to produce the low bass that the main speakers can not, which of course the other types of connections would do also. The advantage here is the fact that with the subwoofer connected this way, it filters the bass out of the signal to your main speakers, so they speakers never try to produce the bass that they can’t handle. This results in clearer, cleaner sound and more volume capability from your main speakers.

Subwoofer placement is generally as below for other speakers. It is true that bass is omni directional and so you should be able to place a subwoofer anywhere, but as usual this depends on your situation. I play music loud, and can detect where the subwoofer is located by the feel of the vibrations. I find it very distracting to have the bass seem to come from the front of the room, but the vibrations of the bass coming from another direction. I therefore always prefer a subwoofer to the front of the room. The subwoofer should be adjusted in accordance with the setup (pink noise test) procedure of the amplifier it is being used with, if on a surround system. This usually means a crossover point of about 80Hz. If you have a phase switch or knob, set it to the position where the bass sounds the loudest. I also notice that most manufacturers recommend the sub be placed to the front of the room on a horizontal line with the main speakers. (Actually, to make all the speakers an equal distance from the listening position, they would form an arc.)

How to get the most out of your speakers & How to improve your sound quality for no extra money (unless you need speaker cable!)

The first consideration with a new speaker system is placement, and the second is wiring, both of which deserve consideration. We will cover wiring first with some generalities that apply to all kinds of speakers. The placement part will cover in home speakers only.

Wiring your speakers

First and foremost, wire selection can be very important. If your speakers are to be installed in-wall, you will need speaker cable rated cl3 or equivalent. If outdoor speakers, you should try to use what is termed a “direct burial” cable or equivalent.

Next, if you care about the sound quality at all, 22 gauge cable is not recommended. It can be used for very short runs, and is smaller for hiding, but due to resistance you will sacrifice some sound quality. I would recommend 16 gauge wire for most runs, unless you really want to get the best out of your speakers, in which case use 12 gauge or larger. For a long run I would recommend larger than 16 gauge cable. Click here to see our cable article and distance chart. I personally use a good audio quality 12 gauge cable myself, but you will pay more for cable this large. The advantages are better dynamics, and the amplifier can control your speakers better due to low resistance wire. As always, let the price point of your speakers determine the cable. Don’t put expensive cables on cheap speakers, and vice versa. BTW, don’t try to use romex (house wiring) instead of decent quality audio cable. Really, just say no. For so many reasons.

One common question is if fancy cable makes any difference. I must state here that many persons consider the very subject to be so much snake-oil. I personally believe that I can hear some differences, depending on the quality of the associated system. In other words, any hearable differences in cable will be more noticeable in a system with more resolution. Also consider that many listeners not selling cable claim to hear a difference. Consider any double blind tests carefully. I usually can pick holes in the logic behind most of these tests, and point out factors not considered. One perfect example was an amplifier test (by a major audio magazine) that level matched the amps, did a double blind test, and asserted the amps sounded identical, so they recommended that everyone buy the cheaper amp. Here’s the rub: Under their exact conditions, which are not normal listening conditions, the amps sounded the same. Consider this unmentioned idea: The cheaper amp had less power output than the other, and under normal listening conditions, say with loud rock music, and inefficient or difficult to drive speakers would have pooped out before reaching satisfying listening levels, not to mention clipping and distorting from overdriving the amp. One problem with the double blind tests is, in order to be accurate, they have to control every factor in the universe that could affect the results, even unknown factors. The other is, in order to compare everything on an even playing field, they purposely diminish or nullify the differences, then triumphantly proclaim they are all the same. The perfect example from above is level matching at a volume level that does not stress the more easily stressed amp.

Polarity or Phasing of your speakers is very important. This means finding the wire with a stripe or writing on one side, and connecting that wire to either the + (red) or -(black) on the amplifier and the speaker. It does not matter whether the stripe on the wire connects to plus or minus, as long as it is the same at both ends, and on all speakers. I always connect the plus to the stripe, just to be consistent. If you get this wrong you will lose almost all your bass response, and voices will float around instead of being centered when they should be.

Home Speaker Placement

Ideal placement for best sound is going to vary with the type of speakers you have, but we can supply some good generalities. Obviously, for a surround system, you have some built in limitations. The center channel needs to go above or below center of your television, (or perhaps centered behind a projection screen) and the left and right front need to go to the left and right front. So on for the rest of the speakers. It should be added at this point that for surround sound placement the ideal is all 3 front speakers an equal distance from the listener. This actually places the front speakers on an arc. It is generally good to put rear surrounds a little higher than ear level so that all listeners get a better chance to hear all the speakers. Leaving aside the obvious details of surround sound, here is how to improve the sound of your system for free.

First, don’t put anything in front of your speakers, and if they are placed in a cabinet make sure that the front of the speaker is even with the front of the cabinet. Also, keep in mind that some speakers such as the rear ported variety perform very poorly in cabinets. Make sure speaker ports, which may be in the front, rear, side or elsewhere, are not blocked. This goes for subwoofers also.

Stability is also important, your speakers need to remain stable at high volume levels. If they move with loud drum beats, your system will be robbed of punch and impact. If you use speaker stands make sure they are stable enough for the size of speakers you have. One quick tip is to use some blu-tack or mortite putty between the speaker and stand to improve the coupling and add stability. Spike on the bottoms of the stands work well for carpeted rooms.

Next, check out the sound of your speakers. Generally, most speakers sound better when aimed directly at the listener, and located at ear height. This is not always the case, however. If the treble or voices sound a little too sharp, then perhaps the speakers will sound better aimed straight out instead of at the listener.

Listen to the bass. Is it boomy, or lacking? If your speakers sound a little boomy, like they are in a barrel, bass response can probably be improved by moving your speakers farther from a wall or corner. If your speakers are too lightweight in bass, they may sound better closer to a wall. Remember not to block any bass ports. If the speaker is rear ported it needs a little space out from the wall and clearance on the sides of the speaker to perform properly.

One little tweak you might try: some speakers sound better with the speaker grills off. Try removing them and see if they sound better. In many cases there will be no noticeable difference, but it costs nothing to try.

Other issues:

If your speakers are correctly phased as described above but voices are not sharply locked in location you may have your speakers too far apart. This generally applies to stereo, not surround sound.

If not used on a surround system, the subwoofer crossover point should be adjusted to coincide with the drop off in bass from your main speakers. You may find this listed in your documentation, usually on the order of the -3db point. If your speakers still don’t seem to perform like they should, you should consider whether the amplifier attached to them is up to the task of driving them. There are more issues here than power, especially impedance. An amplifier that has high wattage may drive 8 ohm speakers well, and do very poorly on 4 ohm speakers if the amplifier is not designed for “high current” or rated into 4 ohm speakers. In addition, many amplifier (or receiver, home theater amplifier, etc) manufacturers use various methods to exaggerate the wattage ratings on their amplifiers. The true rating to look for is called the RMS rating, and should be rated into a specific impedance (4 ohm, 8 ohm) etc and at a specific distortion rating. This does not imply that all amplifier & receiver manufacturers that use terms such as a ‘Dynamic Power Rating’ are trying to deceive consumers. In some instances (such as with NAD equipment) such figures can be very meaningful. Just make sure you are comparing apples with apples, and use the RMS rating as a baseline for comparison. If ALL other factors are equal, the one with a higher dynamic power rating can have more punch and impact.

Any information on this page may be freely copied, as long as the link below is included.

Buy home theater speakers by BIC America

http://www.smartbuyspeakers.com



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Dave Rongey asked:




You will benefit from using residential wiring diagrams if you plan on completing electrical wiring projects in your home. An electrical wiring diagram can be as simple as a diagram showing how to install a new switch in your hallway, or as complex as the complete electrical blueprint for your new home.

Although household electricity is nothing to play around with, in many ways, wiring is simpler than other repair and remodeling skills such as carpentry. Once you’ve learned some basic skills such as installing boxes, running cable, and splicing, you just need to determine which wire goes where. This is why a good wiring diagram is important for wiring your home safely. Keep your diagrams near-by. You’ll want to refer to them often as you work on your project.

Wire Colors:

Electrical wiring diagrams that are in color have an advantage over ones that are black and white only. The wires will be colored the same as the actual wires you will be using. Commonly, the green wire is ground, white or off-white is neutral, and black, red or other colors indicate the hot wire. In some instances, such as some switch legs, the function of the wires will be indicated by colored electrical tape.

Symbols:

When looking at any residential wiring diagram, start by familiarizing yourself with the symbols that are being used. The electrical symbols will not only show where something is to be installed, but what type of device is being installed. Make sure you understand the symbols on your diagram before beginning your project. There should be a chart on your diagram showing the different symbols being used, much like a legend on a map.

For example, a surface ceiling light will be shown by one symbol, a recessed ceiling light will have a different symbol, and a surface fluorescent light will have another symbol. Each type of switch will have a different symbol and so will the various outlets. You’ll even find symbols showing the location of smoke detectors, your doorbell chime, and the thermostat.

Switches:

When it comes to household electricity, there’s a lot more to consider than simply turning a switch On and Off. Some of the most common questions electricians receive involve switches. Once you understand the different types of switches and follow a good wiring diagram, you should be able to install a new switch in your home.

Here are some of the more common switching configurations:

A Single-Pole Switch provides switching from one location only. “Single-Pole” may sound simple, but there are different ways to wire a Single-Pole Switch and a set of electrical wiring diagrams will explain each of them to you clearly.

3-Way Switches are used to control one or more fixtures from two locations. This is a common configuration in hallways and staircases. There are many ways to wire a 3-Way Switch. The power can start at a fixture or either of the two switches. Without a wiring diagram it can be very easy to make a serious mistake.

A wiring diagram will even take the mystery out of wiring a 3-Way Dimmer Switch. What a great way to enjoy softer light and a reduced energy bill!

One of the most complicated wiring configurations is a 4-Way Switch. These switches enable you to control one or more fixtures from three or more locations. It would be almost impossible to write the instructions in a way that you could simply read them and complete your project. However, a good wiring diagram will make it possible for you to successfully and safely tackle wiring 4-Way Switches.

As important as electrical wiring diagrams are to the successful completion of your wiring project, safety and respect for electricity are essential. Never work on live circuits. Before you begin your project, identify the circuit you’re working on and then turn off power to that circuit at the main panel. Then confirm that the power is off with a voltage tester. If at any time you feel unsure about what you’re doing, please call a licensed electrical contractor.



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Bryan Stevens asked:




If someone asks me what is the easiest way to save money on plumbing repairs I always tell them to learn how to clear clogged drains. Clogs of one kind or another are one of the most common plumbing problems. They are so common, in fact, that some entire companies specialize in drain cleaning. Since most drains will eventually get clogged you can save a bundle by learning to fix clogged drains, including clogged tub drains, clogged kitchen drains and other clogged sink drains with no special tools and a little know how.

Clogged Tub Drains

Let’s start with something fairly simple, clogged tub drains. If your tub isn’t draining well it’s very likely the result of hair around the stopper. Plunging probably won’t help this. You will need to remove the stopper and clear the hair out.

There are two common types of tub stoppers, the “trip lever” type and the “lift and turn” or “tip toe” type. The “trip lever” ones have been in use for at least 50 years, the others are a little more recent. They both accomplish the same thing but do so very differently.

Trip Lever Drains

The “trip lever” has a lever on the overflow plate near the top of the tub. There is a linkage rod inside the overflow pipe which connects to the stopper. Some styles have the actual stopper inside the piping and other styles just use the linkage to operate the stopper in the tub.

The first thing to check is the drain in the bottom of the tub. Removing any hair or debris with a pair of needle nose pliers may solve your problem. If not you need to go a little further. Remove the overflow plate and pull the linkage and stopper out through the hole (or remove it from the drain in the tub). Remove any hair or debris that comes out with the stopper, make sure the tub drains now and put everything back together..

Lift and Turn Drains

The “lift and turn” and “tip toe” type are very similar and use a stopper that is connected at the tub drain itself. These have to be unscrewed from the tub drain to clean them out. There’s a trick to unscrewing a lift and turn type stopper. If you open it all the wat and try to uncrew it it will just turn forever. You have to barely lift it up and hold it in that position while you unscrew it. A pair of needle nose pliers is very helpful for removing the hair that is usually clogging the drain.

If your tub drains now pat yourself on the back and go to dinner and a movie with the money you just saved. If things are still clogged the next step is to auger, or snake, the drain. This is done with a small cable snake through the overflow opening. Depending on your skill or confidence level this may be a job for the pros.

Clogged Sink Drains

The first thing to try with clogged sink drains in the bathroom (technically these are called lavatories, not sinks) is a plunger. Be sure you have a sink plunger, not a toilet plunger. It should look like a rubber bowl on a stick. If your lavatory has an overflow you will need to plug it with a wet washcloth, fill the bowl and then plunge away. Be careful if you have plastic piping underneath. If the connections are not tight enough the plunging could cause them to come apart.

If plunging doesn’t work the next step is to remove the trip lever (this is connected to the little rod you pull to operate the stopper), the stopper and the p-trap to make sure they are all clear. Put a medium size bowl under the p-trap to catch the water. If you have metal traps be very careful, these traps get brittle with age. If your’s are plastic you should have no worries.

This should solve most slow drainage problems in the bathroom. If not, you are once again faced with the decision of whether or not now’s the time to call a Licensed Plumber. If you do decide to call a pro at least you know you won’t be paying them to do something you could easily do yourself.

Clogged Kitchen Drains

Clogged kitchen drains are handled pretty much the same way as bathroom sinks except if you have to plunge one side you may need to block the other side with a wet cloth. This will prevent the plunger from just pushing water from one side to the other. If the plunger doesn’t do it be very careful before you remove the trap and piping under the sink. Clogged kitchen drains can involve fairly large amounts of water. Get a big bowl this time, just barely loosen one of the connections to allow things to slowly drain and re- tighten it when the bowl is full. Repeat this process until it stops draining. Now you can safely remove the p-trap and see if it just needs cleaning out.



How To Unclog A Garbage Disposal

If you have a garbage disposal clogged it is usually also jammed and not turning. Most garbage disposals have a reset button on bottom that you can push to reset the motor. Most of then also can be manually turned with an “Allen” or hex key by inserting the key into the shaft on bottom of the disposal. After manually turning the shaft a couple of times back and forth, remove the key and try the switch.

This will usually do the job. If it is still jammed, turn off the breaker, get a flashlight and see if you can see anything inside that doesn’t belong. If you can, try to remove it with your trusty needle nose pliers.

If none of these things work, you know the drill by now. At least you gave it your best shot. When the plumbers get there be sure and tell them what you have already tried.



Whole House Clogged



Having one slow draining or stopped up fixture is bad enough. When your whole house won’t drain it is a real emergency! While you may not be equipped to fix the problem yourself, there are some things you can do save yourself some serious money if you have to call a plumber.

The first thing you need to know, if you don’t already, is whether you are connected to the public sewer system or have a septic tank. If you don’t already know this there are several ways to find out. Your water bill will usually have a sewer charge if you are connected. Ask your neighbors if they know, usually you’ll have whatever they do. Check your street for manholes, a sign of a sewer system.

Something else you should do before you have a problem is look around outside your home for a clean out This is a pipe with a plug that can be unscrewed to access your sewer pipe. Clean outs are usually close to the house and may be buried in a flower bed. If you are connected to a sewer you probably have a clean out so poke around and find it.

If you know where your clean out is and your house is stopped up you can remove the cap and, if the blockage is in the yard, you can prevent your house being flooded with sewage. Just take a big pair of channel lock pliers and SLOWLY remove the clean out plug. If the line is full it might spray out of the cap as you unscrew the last few turns.

If you get the clean out cap off and the line is full of waste water that means that the blockage is downstream of the clean out. It also relieves some of the urgency of the situation as you can now usually use your plumbing sparingly and it will drain into your yard. While not great it’s better than in your house.

You will probably need to call a plumber to correct this but now you can wait until regular hours and avoid those high after hours rates. You may have also prevented a lot of costly (and disgusting) damages. You can still pat yourself on the back but you may want to wash your hands first.

Hopefully this article has shown you that anyone can learn how to clear clogged drains without calling a plumber (at least most of the time). With most plumbers charging well over $100 per hour, this one simple skill could save you a bundle.



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submit111@gmail.com asked:




Knowing how to install ceramic floor tile can be done in easy steps. What you need are the right tools or equipments and the right instruction book to follow. Follow these basic and straightforward steps, and you’ll be able to bring your desired floor design to life.

Get the right tools for the job.

For starters, if you want to know how to install ceramic floor tile by yourself, you should have the right tools and materials for the job. You can easily buy, or rent, most of the tools and materials you’ll need at you neighborhood hardware store, or home center. For equipment that would be too expensive like a tile cutter, or hand held micro cutter, you may be able to rent these tools from your local home center or a tool rental yard. Here are most of the basic tools you will need for your tiling job:

a) Put safety gear on. Use a pair of safety glasses, heavy leather gloves, and long-sleeved work clothes, especially if it involves taking out the existing ceramic tiles. Broken shards and other debris can cause nasty cuts, if you are not careful. b) A tape measure, tile spacers, carpenter’s square and a bubble level. c) A mallet and hammer, a putty knife and a trowel (preferably, the notched kind), and a rubber grout float and a putty knife. d) A tile cutter (which may be rented) and a pair of tile nippers. e) Mortar material like a thin set mortar, or any one of a wide selection of tile adhesives. f) Tiling grout and sealant. Tiling grout comes in many color tints that you can choose from to fit your desired look and floor design.

Prepare your subfloor before installing your tiles.

The tiling part of the project starts here. It would be a great experience for you to learn how to install ceramic floor tile by learning about the type of floors you will be putting your tiles on. Always check for cracks and debris when If you’re working on a concrete subfloor. Make it is smooth and clean. Repair as many of the cracks as you can. If you see cracks that are too large to repair, replace the floor section where they are found with new concrete. For plywood subfloors, be sure that the wood is at least 1 and 1/8 inches thick and is supported by an equally strong underlayment. Otherwise, your ceramic tiles will dislodge easily, or worse, break and need replacing.

You’ll need to tear out the existing tiles in case the floor you’ll be installing tiles on has existing tiles. For starters, all you need to do is use a large flat-bladed chisel and a mallet, and just hammer away. Then, you’ll need to clean out the debris. If you to smoothen your subfloor — you may want to rent a sander to do the job. Be sure to keep yourself protected. Use heavy-duty leather work gloves, safety glasses, and long-sleeved work clothes.

Lay out your floor.

Measuring the length and width of your floor will help you determine how to install ceramic floor tile and help you know estimate the number of ceramic floor tiles you will need to purchase. Start by finding the center point of your floor area. You can do this by measuring across the room and marking the center. Do this in opposite direction and mark the center, as well. The intersection of the two lines is the center of the floor you will be tiling over. Run chalk lines over the intersection lines. These chalk lines will help you with how to install ceramic floor tile and with your tile positioning.

Let the tiling begin!

Make sure you position and place the first tile at the intersection of the two lines you made. Then, bond it to your subfloor by using a thin set mortar, or a tile adhesive of your choice. Using a notched trowel for applying the mortar is best on how to install ceramic floor tile. But you may actually use the more common trowel variety is you don’t have one. To secure the ceramic tile in its place, press down while twisting it back and forth till the tile no longer is set. If some of the mortar or adhesive oozes out, use your trowel (or a damp sponge) to scrape off the excess. Do this process over with the next tile, and so on and so forth, until you’ve finished your ceramic floor tiling.

Time to grout and seal.

After your ceramic floor tiles have set, it’s time to put the tiling grout in. Tiling grout is a material that you should know more about when you want to know how to install ceramic floor tile flooring. Tiling grout is a material made cement, sand and water, and a little color. It is used to fill in gaps and seal in the spaces between tiles. Tiling grout comes in a wide variety of color tints that may be matched to your tile color. Use a rubber grout float and work the tiling grout into the gaps between the tiles. Use your grout float at an angle so that you can fill in the joint gap with as much tiling grout as possible.

Use a damp sponge to wipe off the excess grout from gaps between tiles. Rinse the sponge frequently to get as much of the excess grout off, and keep each tile clean. You have the option of applying a sealant to the grout lines after they dry.

And there you have it! Learning about how to install ceramic floor tile is easy! By following these basic steps, you too can realize your ceramic floor design. Learning how to install ceramic floor tile properly will give you a sense of satisfaction at a job well done, and a beautiful ceramic tiled floor.



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